Of all the 2-star Chefs currently floating about in our gastronomic consciousness, Yoann Conte doesn’t appear to be a front-runner. Perhaps this is due to the very recent 2-star (February 2013), and a somewhat “remote” location, along with the very big shadow of his master, Marc Veyrat. Whilst most of Veyrat’s students position his name on their resume with pride and use it somewhat as a selling pitch, Conte is different. Never before has an ex-Veyrat kid been responsible for carrying his master’s reputation quite so ardently, whilst at the same time trying to distance himself from too close of a comparison. A few years ago Marc Veyrat walked away from the kitchen of his 3-star restaurant in Veyrier-du-Lac. Yoann Conte took over the kitchen, but not over the property or the philosophy. After doing « du Veyrat », he started taking ownership of the dishes, with this culminating in a second Michelin star only last year.
Moving on from the contextual side of things, what about the experience ? The place has a fantastic location in one of the most dramatic spots in France – Lake Annecy – where the big blue house has its herb garden right at the shore. A weekend lunch there is guaranteed to be a relaxing experience. Interesting too for people who are not used to visiting gastronomic restaurants, as wide windows give a great view of the entire kitchen. This is at a cost, though. Expect to be paying at least 50 to 80 euros more than at the neighbouring 2-star restaurant, Clos des Sens. The current offer on weekends ranges from a €110 4-course Menu to a €198 Tasting Menu. In-between you’ll find a 7-course Surprise Menu at €160, which is what I opted for. As of mid-January, there was also a €250 White Truffle Menu. “A la carte” is rather expensive, again compared to Clos des Sens.
It is no surprise that Conte’s inspiration comes mainly from local products : herbs and lake fish are usually a big part of his cooking. He must however adapt to the seasons. As he says, “in winter, I am naked”. Very little herbs. That’s when he gets back to his Brittany and southwestern roots. His winter offering is considerably richer too. I was fortunate enough to get quite a lot of “residual” truffle sprinkled over dishes, and a couple of additional plates straight from the White Truffle Menu.
I am polarized by the experience as a whole. There is no doubt Yoann Conte has a lot of talent – worthy of the stars he holds. The very first dish of the menu, Butternut squash cream with a Parmesan mousse, chestnuts and grated white truffle, sets the bar high. The softness of the cream balances the power of the Parmesan, with the truffle adding some depth of taste.
I felt lucky to get the Carrot signature dish again, basically Carrot prepared in different styles : puréed with orange, a slightly salted carrot and orange sorbet, honey. I heard this dish works for some people, and not for others. I am a total fan for a couple of reasons. Firstly, carrots are naturally tasty. Secondly, Conte makes a balanced and original dish out of two of the most recognizable and unsurprising ingredients I could think of. He sometimes associates it to a trout, one of my favorite dishes of 2013.
I have to mention the Gnocchis, Sabayon of Vin Jaune (Jura wine) Parmesan and white truffle. I can only have respects for chefs that showcase dishes using vin jaune. It usually appeals only to a very limited crowd of those who enjoys oxydative tastes. The use is clever, it could literally replace the Parmesan, if not the texture at least the taste.
As final highlight of this lunch was the seemingly complex Scallops and black truffle Pithivier with Jerusalem Artichoke and ink purée. I had only heard of pithivier of pigeon. I give credits for the originality here. It was also one of the most visual dishes. The pithivier enabled the flavors of the scallop and the truffle to intertwine as well as sticking to the crust.
Inbetween those memorable plates, some dishes felt forgettable like the Crab Crumble and Féra, leek and potato. The feeling was: « ok well that’s crab ». Too bad.
I remembered enjoying the Smoked Féra, Potatoes sheet by sheet, acha, parsely juice the first time I had it. I was less impressed this time around. It felt the dish wasn’t figured out : was it meant to be served warm, luckwarm ? I couldn’t find the balance in the dish, some bites were definitely oversalty.
The biggest disappointment came from the Cod, watercress variation and green apple dices. The sabayon of watercress and vin jaune was way too rich. Instead of using the skin of the fish to give the crisp texture, there was a thin slice of grilled bread on the cod, which was too buttery. I genuinly disliked the dish, despite the fish being very well cooked.
Desserts are a definite highlight of the menu, from the extremely fresh Clementine variation, butternut squash cream, olive oil infused biscuit to the sweet and salty Polenta, corn cream, caramel ice cream and the Chocolate Pistaccio and Chartreuse cake. I will also include the small hay sorbet bite to the list, genious.
It is hard to leave the place disappointed. Despite what you might think of the food, you’re paying for the location and a memorable afternoon. Also, a warning to you: be prepared to get stuffed. You’ll get a lot of food for your money. In my case, I would argue that it really is too much. I struggled to have a single bite of the meat course (Beef, grenaille potatoes, macaroni filled with foie gras, artichoke, bone marrow and truffle). To note, the service is impeccable, thoughtful and relaxed.
I only hope now that I can come back again, and try the spring-summer dishes. Strangely, as opposed to Flocons de Sel, I think I would be more into the summer dishes here than the winter ones.
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The good things: Great location, some memorable dishes, a real experience with good staff.
Who am I to talk? Swings in quality of the dishes, debatable taste in the design of the plates, the wine list man!
Address: 13 Vieille Route des Pensières, Veyrier-du-Lac, +33 (0) 50 09 97 49
Encore Faim 